12th March 2009 - by Pete Buckley
The Scottish Highlands - a Hikers Guide to Ben Nevis
Ben Nevis, which at at 4406 feet or 1343 metres is the highest mountain in the British Isles,
is a popular objective for walkers and hikers visiting the Scottish Highlands from all over the world. The "Big Bad
Ben" as the mountain is affectionately known to many , is a technically easy climb by its normal routes but one
that should never be underestimated. The Scottish Highlands of which the mountain is the highest summit, are
situated in a northerly latitude exposed to the Atlantic weather systems so alpine conditions can be encountered at
surprisingly low altitudes. Snow will usually fall at some point in midsummer near the top of Ben Nevis and outside
of the summer season the hiker is likely to need ice axe and crampons to make a safe ascent. In summer you will
need only normal hiking gear.
There are 2 main walkers routes up the mountain, both starting at or near the town of Fort William which also makes
a good base having plentiful accomodation including hotels, guest houses and several campsites.
Most ascents of Ben Nevis are made by the so called Tourist Route - also known as the Pony Track or the Achintee
Path. You won't encounter many ponies here but the track is usually crowded with tourists - many of whom are
dressed for the beach rather than a mountain climb. In fact the attire of the more inappropriately dressed walkers
is a useful source of amusement when the mist comes in and obscures more distant views. The starting point is
signposed to Ben Nevis from the A82 as it leaves Fort William to the North. You can drive a mile or so to the car
park where the path begins.
A slightly better start point is from the beautiful and spectacular valley of Glen Nevis nearby. Here a path
crosses the footbridge over the River Nevis not far from the Glen Nevis Campsite. This path climbs the opposite
slope and joins the original route in its early stages. Either way it's 10 miles return with over 4300 feet of
ascent.
After the confluence of the 2 paths you will follow a wide track climbing the steep mountainside in a seemingly
endless series of switchbacks. In places there are constructed stone steps and nowhere is there any difficulty
in ascent or in route finding. The only respite from the stony zig zags is half way up where the path crosses a
pleasant grassy plateau overlooking the mountain tarn of Lochan Meall an t-Suidhe. It is just after here that the
main track heads to the right by the ruins of the old Halfway House. For another 2000 feet of punishment, this is
the way you will follow up to the highest ground in Britain - the boulder littered summit plateau of Ben Nevis.
For a much more interesting route; from the Halfway House follow the fainter path to the left, and leaving the
hordes behind follow this round into the rocky cwm of Coire Leis where - weather permitting - you will be treated
to a view of Scotland's greatest mountain wall. The North Face of Ben Nevis is over 2000 feet high and of alpine
proportions, great shadowed crags towering above semi permanent snowfields. There is no way up here for the
walker!
The route now climbs the slopes of reddish scree opposite to the peak of Carn Mor Dearg before following a
wonderful high level rock ridge known as the Carn Mor Dearg Arete. The arete is in a sensational position and maybe
isn't ideal if you have no head for heights, but it is classed as a walk as opposed to a scramble so while you'll
want your hands out of your pockets, the path is fairly straightforward. After the ridge a steep stony ascent leads
up to the top of Ben Nevis. Don't use this route if it's icy unless you are experienced in winter mountaineering
and have the right equipment.
The choice of route is really down to how experienced you are, the Carn Mor Dearg route is far more interesting but
is not really suitable for totally inexperienced walkers, while the Tourist Route is safe and easy but lacks
interest other than the views so it would be a shame to trudge all the way up the latter to find the summit
shrouded in dense grey cloud as it often is. I first climbed the mountain at the age of 8 when it was partially
clear though on several subsequent ascents, fog has been the main feature of the summit prospect. You never know
though - the sun may shine. If it does can you send me a photo!
Source: http://articlesabroad.com
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